Edward Enninful discusses Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter on the London Underground in 1988 altered the course of a young Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's vibrant 1990s creative scene, evolving from model to stylist and, while still a teenager, becoming the style editor of the publication i-D.

"That time was the height of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be great friends. We all hung out across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I long for that rawness."

If Enninful sounds wistful, he is far from alone. Lately, a fond idealisation of the 1990s has grown intense. However in the intervening decades, Enninful feels a significant change. "In my view, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he observes. "It’s not even this country – it’s a global phenomenon."

A Perceived Regression

This regression is increasingly evident: the rise of far-right politics, the backlash against social awareness, and the return of narrow beauty standards. In place of the optimism of the Blair era, now a different political force appears as a possible leader. Even, the British flag, once an emblem of cultural optimism, has returned as a polarising symbol.

According to Enninful, the solution has long been to champion culture in all its multifaceted forms. This was the core philosophy behind his landmark issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a snapshot of modern Britain, featuring a wide range of prominent faces from literature.

"Those in a position of influence should employ it," he says, explaining those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I could not have had this life if Britain hadn't been a lenient country, if it refused my family a refuge and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I cherished. I believe this period will end."

A New Wave of Consciousness

He draws solace in the next generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They talk about unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

His formative years would shape a groundbreaking career built on boldness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first male, first Black editor, first gay man, and first disabled gay man of colour to take the helm at British Vogue. His time featured diverse covers showcasing people of diverse backgrounds, plus-sized women, older individuals, and people from all walks of life. Importantly, sales increased.

"To overlook huge sections of the population, it’s not just that you’re excluding people – it’s bad for business," he emphasises.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has since founded his agency EE72 and its flagship publication, 72, his premier initiative since moving on from his former post. He states his aim to continue being a "innovator".

"I constantly interrogate the conventional wisdom. I was raised in a place where the majority was Black – the physicians, the attorneys, the leader. Then we arrived in England, without funds, and I became the 'other'. I was painfully reserved. My teachers said I’d achieve nothing. Me and my brothers were stopped by the police the Sus laws … those experiences gave me a unique perspective between worlds."

Defying the caricature of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is softly spoken and projects peace. His journey has not been immune to challenges, including well-documented struggles with depression and substance use.

He has also endured serious health issues, having undergone several surgeries on his eyes, now leaving him with impaired eyesight. "I endured such a difficult period for two years, not working, anxious I was going to go blind. It’s comparable to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I prayed, if this ever is over, I’m just going to do everything that I was so fearful to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to fit into a box has inspired him beyond the world that built his career. He is now organising a significant 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a roster of influential artists and photographers from the era. The show, he notes, aims to evoke the decade's creative cross-pollination – and spotlight those who did not receive due recognition at the time.

"The establishment didn't always shine a light on the right artists because they weren't of the expected background," he states.

This project itself functions with a novel approach, forgoing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "The question is, what can we create collaboratively? Is it an experience, a podcast? The magazine is part of a larger creative platform."

A Testament to Resilience

Now, Enninful is regarded as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His journey, he believes, is a proof to the power of defying expectations.

What would the Enninful of that era make of the man he has become? He smiles. "It would be a surprise, but he’d be proud. In those days I was a rebel. I would not have believed institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He reflects. "I never take anything for granted. We were displaced, we left our homeland. I nearly lost my vision. So fear isn't an option. People have underestimated me my whole career. But I am unstoppable once I’ve made up my mind to do something."